David Evil Overlord
Censored Member
Pirates were perhaps not the best at observing Occupational Health and Safety regulations.
It's a Small World - the modelling thread.
- Thread starter Pyan
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2008
- Messages
- 8,121
I finally finished the jetbike squad!
Not strictly a model, but just got a new t-shirt to wear when I manage to get back to the shipyard:
Well known for kippering her lookouts, as they put the crows-nest behind the fore-funnel...
And here's the kit, sitting in the to-build stack:
Well known for kippering her lookouts, as they put the crows-nest behind the fore-funnel...
And here's the kit, sitting in the to-build stack:
This rigging malarky is the most difficult thing I’ve tried when it comes to model kits. My first attempt initially went well. I was pleasantly surprised that, after threading up the jig in the appropriate manner, I realised that I was making a pair of shrouds rather than just the one. My delight soon turned to frustration when I realised that by gluing the crossover. points, I’d also glued the shrouds to the jig. My frustration turned to despair when, trying to slip a blade in to cut away the glue from the jig, it was impossible to do without cutting through the newly made shrouds.
Back to the drawing board. This time, I’ll glue every point except those lying on the cross bar of the jig. Those will have to be dealt with once it comes off. I just hope the shrouds hold their shape when that happens. Don’t watch this space, it’s going to be a while
Back to the drawing board. This time, I’ll glue every point except those lying on the cross bar of the jig. Those will have to be dealt with once it comes off. I just hope the shrouds hold their shape when that happens. Don’t watch this space, it’s going to be a while
This rigging malarky is the most difficult thing I’ve tried when it comes to model kits. My first attempt initially went well. I was pleasantly surprised that, after threading up the jig in the appropriate manner, I realised that I was making a pair of shrouds rather than just the one. My delight soon turned to frustration when I realised that by gluing the crossover. points, I’d also glued the shrouds to the jig. My frustration turned to despair when, trying to slip a blade in to cut away the glue from the jig, it was impossible to do without cutting through the newly made shrouds.
Back to the drawing board. This time, I’ll glue every point except those lying on the cross bar of the jig. Those will have to be dealt with once it comes off. I just hope the shrouds hold their shape when that happens. Don’t watch this space, it’s going to be a while
That video is exactly what I'm trying to do with the same frame (I note at one point he says be careful not to glue the shroud to the frame)
A couple of observations. First, I'm doing it in reverse. I'm adding the verticals and then the horizontals. I don't know if this is important. It doesn't seem to be because I appear to be getting the same result when complete. The second observation is that he's doubling up and doing two shrouds on each side. That is something I never thought of and will minimise a hell of a lot of waste.
My progress: I've redone the shroud and only glued where the thread is not touching the frame. I'm hoping once it is dry, I can remove and then glue the final few areas (if it comes off in one piece). Unfortunately I don't have superglue with a brush and I think applying straight from the nozzle caused my original problem. This time, I've sacrificed one of my paint brushes for greater spread and accuracy. I need to source some brush applied superglue but can't seem to find any locally. The brush is knackered after one aplication. Might be a job for amazon...
)A couple of observations. First, I'm doing it in reverse. I'm adding the verticals and then the horizontals. I don't know if this is important. It doesn't seem to be because I appear to be getting the same result when complete. The second observation is that he's doubling up and doing two shrouds on each side. That is something I never thought of and will minimise a hell of a lot of waste.
My progress: I've redone the shroud and only glued where the thread is not touching the frame. I'm hoping once it is dry, I can remove and then glue the final few areas (if it comes off in one piece). Unfortunately I don't have superglue with a brush and I think applying straight from the nozzle caused my original problem. This time, I've sacrificed one of my paint brushes for greater spread and accuracy. I need to source some brush applied superglue but can't seem to find any locally. The brush is knackered after one aplication. Might be a job for amazon...
I squeeze a small amount of superglue into an old bottle-cap, and use wooden toothpicks as dip-and-dab implements. A lot cheaper than brushes, and you can nip off the end, scrape a new point with your scalpel and re-use until they're too short to hold.
That video has made me come to a major decision. The guy in the video confesses to just using ordinary thread so, if it’s good enough for him, it’s good enough for a numpty like me. I’ve ordered 250 metres of good quality synthetic black thread for £4.98. Should be here sometime next week.
This will allow me to make tons of mistakes and still have plenty left. Being synthetic, it shouldn’t fur up but I’ll coat it with lacquer just to be on the safe side. It’ll also save me a ton of money but, if I decide it’s not working out, I can always go back to the really expensive stuff. If it does work, I’ll have plenty left for future models. At that price, it’s worth a try.
This will allow me to make tons of mistakes and still have plenty left. Being synthetic, it shouldn’t fur up but I’ll coat it with lacquer just to be on the safe side. It’ll also save me a ton of money but, if I decide it’s not working out, I can always go back to the really expensive stuff. If it does work, I’ll have plenty left for future models. At that price, it’s worth a try.
I spent a bit of time over the weekend experimenting with different ways of making shrouds. I found superglue and cocktail stick a bit hit or miss (mainly trying to get enough on the stick to do the job without swamping the thread). I also tried PVA straight and PVA dilute with water. Both worked but were a bit messy. The one thing about the PVA was that it didn't ruin the brush so I began to think....I really need something that is meant to be applied by a brush (or even an air brush). Eureka!
This polyurethane based primer is meant to be applied by a brush or airbrush. It dries like a plastic skin and it's the same colour as the thread. I decided to try it and it worked. When I cut the shroud away from the jig, it came out whole. It still needs a bit of tidying up but I think it's useable.
Now I just need to wait for my 250metres of thread to arrive. I'd use these shrouds if I was certain it will be the same diameter as the stuff I've ordered.
Progress at last
P.S. I really need to get a proper cutting board.
This polyurethane based primer is meant to be applied by a brush or airbrush. It dries like a plastic skin and it's the same colour as the thread. I decided to try it and it worked. When I cut the shroud away from the jig, it came out whole. It still needs a bit of tidying up but I think it's useable.
Now I just need to wait for my 250metres of thread to arrive. I'd use these shrouds if I was certain it will be the same diameter as the stuff I've ordered.
Progress at last
P.S. I really need to get a proper cutting board.
My first ever attempt at making and applying rigging to a ship. It looks okay from a distance but a bit rough up close. Still, I consider myself just one step above beginner so I'm taking this as a win. Hopefully my next batch will be better
Just finished my second pair of shrouds. They're a big improvement on the first pair. The polyurethane primer works a treat but it's all about applying the minimum amount to get the threads sticking but without swamping them in gloop. The magnifying lenses @Pyan recommended a while back are really coming into their own on this job.
I'm not going to post photos of each stage for now but (hopefully-barring disasters) I'll stick a shot in when all shrouds and lines have been completed. There's a helluva lot of them so it's going to be a while (probably measured in weeks).
I've also come to a decision regarding model ship building. I just don't have the space so, from now on, I'm going to be buying 1/700 scale. Awful fiddly but it's better than nowt. Luckily, my fascination for Imperial Japanese warships is well served in this scale.
I've still got a few bigger models in the pile to do (including the space shuttle) but if I complete them, have no idea where to put them.
I'm not going to post photos of each stage for now but (hopefully-barring disasters) I'll stick a shot in when all shrouds and lines have been completed. There's a helluva lot of them so it's going to be a while (probably measured in weeks).
I've also come to a decision regarding model ship building. I just don't have the space so, from now on, I'm going to be buying 1/700 scale. Awful fiddly but it's better than nowt. Luckily, my fascination for Imperial Japanese warships is well served in this scale.
I've still got a few bigger models in the pile to do (including the space shuttle) but if I complete them, have no idea where to put them.
I invested in a pair of Fiskars Soft Touch scissors for trimming rigging - expensive, (but on offer at Amazon) and well worth it for the spring action and the delicacy of the points.
Soft Touch Scissors
Soft Touch Scissors
I hope you didn't specify express delivery -- you don't want people running with them.Scissors ordered
David Evil Overlord
Censored Member
Order Rock and Paper with your Scissors, and you will be invincible!
I've just started attaching the sixth and last pair of shrouds to the Cutty Sark (note: there are still a few dozen single lines to be attached so nowhere near finished yet).
I think this build is far enough along for me to say that this is the least enjoyable and most frustrating model I have ever built. I'll go further. If all there was to build were ships like this then I'd never build another model in my life.
As a near beginner, I've tried to follow the instructions to the letter but there is so much information that is not there that makes the frustrations even worse. First: the model is light, (really light). I've lost count of the number of times that I've accidently knocked it and shifted its position just as I've tried to apply a shroud. Why oh why didn't the instructions at least advise adding some weight inside the hull during the build to make the craft a bit more sturdy to work with? Second: nowhere is it mentioned that the deeper you go into putting on the shrouds that the mast cross-spars become a big problem. They are so thin and springy that I couldn't even get away with laying the ship on its side for fear of bending or breaking off a spar. Having to wear magnifying lenses to see where to attach the shrouds means that you can't see how close you are working to a cross-spar...until you knock it and the (very light) model shifts at the crucial moment. All this leads to shrouds that have sagged or set in a sub-optimal position.
The last couple of weeks on this ship have been nothing more than me counting the days until it's finished and I can put it away and never look at it again. Normally, by this time, I'd have binned it but it was a gift and I therefore feel duty bound to complete it.
Still to do: all the single lines, prime, paint and position the sails (which will, hopefully, help hide some of my sagging shrouds).
Rant over
I think this build is far enough along for me to say that this is the least enjoyable and most frustrating model I have ever built. I'll go further. If all there was to build were ships like this then I'd never build another model in my life.
As a near beginner, I've tried to follow the instructions to the letter but there is so much information that is not there that makes the frustrations even worse. First: the model is light, (really light). I've lost count of the number of times that I've accidently knocked it and shifted its position just as I've tried to apply a shroud. Why oh why didn't the instructions at least advise adding some weight inside the hull during the build to make the craft a bit more sturdy to work with? Second: nowhere is it mentioned that the deeper you go into putting on the shrouds that the mast cross-spars become a big problem. They are so thin and springy that I couldn't even get away with laying the ship on its side for fear of bending or breaking off a spar. Having to wear magnifying lenses to see where to attach the shrouds means that you can't see how close you are working to a cross-spar...until you knock it and the (very light) model shifts at the crucial moment. All this leads to shrouds that have sagged or set in a sub-optimal position.
The last couple of weeks on this ship have been nothing more than me counting the days until it's finished and I can put it away and never look at it again. Normally, by this time, I'd have binned it but it was a gift and I therefore feel duty bound to complete it.
Still to do: all the single lines, prime, paint and position the sails (which will, hopefully, help hide some of my sagging shrouds).
Rant over
This rigging malarky is the most difficult thing I’ve tried when it comes to model kits. My first attempt initially went well. I was pleasantly surprised that, after threading up the jig in the appropriate manner, I realised that I was making a pair of shrouds rather than just the one. My delight soon turned to frustration when I realised that by gluing the crossover. points, I’d also glued the shrouds to the jig. My frustration turned to despair when, trying to slip a blade in to cut away the glue from the jig, it was impossible to do without cutting through the newly made shrouds.
Back to the drawing board. This time, I’ll glue every point except those lying on the cross bar of the jig. Those will have to be dealt with once it comes off. I just hope the shrouds hold their shape when that happens. Don’t watch this space, it’s going to be a while
I seem to remember that when I was a teenager and making balsa wood flying planes I used to apply a film of soap to the jig to prevent the balsa wood sticking to it. I used to smear it on with a bar of soap.
Don’t know if that would work for super glue but it worked for the glue that we used in the 50s. Maybe worth an experiment.
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2008
- Messages
- 8,121
Here's an Eldar grav-tank, with patterning taken from butterflies.
Just had my monthly BMA Models email, and this gem caught my eye.
Stainless steel superglue applicators - £3.80 (plus p&p) for 5.
What I use, and plan to keep using:
Disposable wooden cocktail sticks - 35p for 100.
And they're biodegradable...
Stainless steel superglue applicators - £3.80 (plus p&p) for 5.
What I use, and plan to keep using:
Disposable wooden cocktail sticks - 35p for 100.
And they're biodegradable...
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