Penguin Travel Library and other literary travel books

Extollager, thanks for the correction, I did mean Paul Fussell, was writing without going over to the bookcase and taking out the book to check the title and author!

hitmouse, I agree with you that Kapuscinski is a brilliant writer and I don't doubt many of his books will outlive his reputation. If he had called what he did 'fiction' or even 'magic journalism' when he was writing from African war zones in the 1970s, the reception would have been different. He wouldn't have had the same credibility as a war reporter perhaps, but he could have written his magical prose unhindered. The problem is that you can't do both. There was a time when travellers from Europe could go off to some remote island or mountain range and make up stories (Francois le Vaillant on southern Africa in the 1700s is an example of a renowned fabulist). You can't do that any longer because the locals will call the writer on the inaccuracies and fabrications.

Some of the same difficulties are there in Bruce Chatwin too. He did a great deal of research and the details are often correct , but it is the selection of recondite and aesthetically unusual details that is so problematic, his habit of cherrypicking facts to corroborate or heighten a particular theory or atmosphere.

When Chatwin's letters were published a couple of years ago, the criticism was pointed -- Chatwin's working up of the ordinary into something glamorous, exotic, desirable. His writing persona was that of 'an extraordinary man to whom extraordinary things happen'. Blake Morrison is scathing about Chatwin's disdain for ordinariness and the stylised mythmaking, the secrecy and dubious methods of acquiring information. The hardest thing we can say about a travel writer is that he or she isn't truthful and the accounts given can't be trusted.

But to read In Patagonia or The Songlines is still to experience enchantment.
 
Pre-20th-century travel writing -- Extollager, your list inspired me!

I've read a fair amount on and by early travellers in Africa. The first writer to describe Africa in vivid if not accurate detail was Herodotus, and as late as the 19th century travellers were still hoping to prove or disprove some of his claims. At university we studied Luis de Camoes' Lusiads (first printed 1572), an epic poem describing Vasco da Gama's journey to southern Africa. This is based on Camoes' own travels around Africa to India but features a mythical encounter with the giant hideous phantom or 'spirit of the Cape or Table Mountain', named Adamastor. Many writers in Africa have drawn on this mythology.


In post-grad studies I did a project on the travellers funded by the London Missionary Society or LMS and their diaries and letters. There are works by and about James Campbell sent to the Cape Colony in 1915, John Philip who came out to South Africa in 1819, fought fiercely for the rights of the indigenous Khoisan and was loathed by the slave-owning settlers. The letters of David Livingstone (in Africa from 1840), Robert and Mary Moffat at Kuruman mission station. There is a wealth of diaries and letters here for anyone interested in missionary history, firsthand accounts of the wars fought between settlers and the Xhosa in the Eastern Cape, the politics of the colonial Cape governments.

There are diaries and published travels and memoirs by explorers like Burton, Speke and Stanley (his trips to Lake Victoria and down the tributaries of the Congo River make for fascinating reading and his In Darkest Africa set the model for how white colonials would write about Africa, the influence behind Rider Haggard, Rudyard Kipling and generations of Boy's Own adventures in the so-called Dark Continent). Many early travellers in southern Africa were botanists, like Joseph Martin in Mauritius (early 1800s), William Burchell (circa 1822), John Hutchinson and Charles La Trobe. There are the exploits of big game hunters like Cornwallis Harris and Courtney Selous.

Most early travel writing was by wealthy or subsidised white men and women from Europe. One of the few African voices is that of the Tswana writer Sol Plaatje who travelled to Mafeking as a court reporter for the British during the Anglo-Boer war and recorded his experiences of the Siege of Mafeking in a diary published in 1900 as Boer War Diary.
 
Eloise, I want to respond to your messages later. Thank you for them!

I wonder if the appeal of the kind of destinations one often (certainly not always) reads about is that there is more silence there than in the places from which the traveler comes. Here is an essay I just ran across about silence, children's voices, auditory and visual and inner noise, which you might find worthy of your time:

http://www.frontporchrepublic.com/2013/05/life-under-compulsion-noise/

The author writes about the child's awareness, and this reminded me of something in the movie made from C. J. Koch's The Year of Living Dangerously. (I have read the book, but that was almost 30 years ago and I don't own a copy. I expect this is from the book.) An Australian journalist is brought to Djakarta's night-town. His guide (I am almost tempted to say, his psychopomp, but this isn't the afterlife, but a new vision of this life) says something like, "Coming here makes you a child again." The journo is at a loss for words.
 
hitmouse, I agree with you that Kapuscinski is a brilliant writer and I don't doubt many of his books will outlive his reputation. If he had called what he did 'fiction' or even 'magic journalism' when he was writing from African war zones in the 1970s, the reception would have been different......

Some of the same difficulties are there in Bruce Chatwin too. ...his habit of cherrypicking facts to corroborate or heighten a particular theory or atmosphere....

I haven't read Kapuscinski yet, but I've read most of Chatwin, so I appreciate the heads-up about his writing practices! About Chatwin I'm not surprised. My feeling would be that this Kapuscinski-Chatwin kind of writing can be very enjoyable to read but also that a little of it goes a long way, and I'm glad to balance it with (what I take to be) writing that is less "artful" in that particular sense. So, for example, I liked Harrer's Seven Years in Tibet or Parkman's Oregon Trail for what they were: I take them to be intended as quite straightforward presentations of what the authors saw, heard, and did. I relish the variety of tone as well as destination that one finds in travel writing.
 
Eloise, it sounds like a great idea for a book would be an anthology of selections from the missionary diaries and letters that you mention, with an emphasis on themes such as personal narratives (this especially!); the positive contributions of white missionaries as a balance to the cliche of nothing but chauvinistic imperialism, destruction of indigenous life-ways, etc.; and the variety of motive and manner both of individual indigenous persons and of individual whites. We know the former generalizations (most of us, by hearsay); we know the current politically correct generalizations; I am interested in the quotidian experiences of people. I've read Amos Tutuola (My Life in the Bush of Ghosts), Elechi Amadi (The Concubine), Chinua Achebe (Things Fall Apart; No Longer at Ease), Camara Laye (The Radiance of the King), a lot of Rider Haggard, and a little Doris Lessing (Martha Quest), and Kipling, but these are all works of fiction with various purposes. An anthology of nonfiction pieces such as I describe, emphasizing also literary quality, would be a good book to have. (In nonfiction, the only history I have read worth mentioning is part of Morris's The Washing of the Spears.)
 
Today's mail brought a freebie from a friend -- Thubron's Shadow of the Silk Road.
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But I'm behind in my travel books by this author -- I'll want to read first my copy of The Lost Heart of Asia. (Also, I haven't read his first three, Mirror to Damascus, The Hills of Adonis, and Jerusalem.) I've enjoyed Journey into Cyprus, Among the Russians, Behind the Wall, and In Siberia, the middle two of which I've read twice, I believe.
 
Yeah that Thubron is on my list.

Re Missionary diary/journal mashups. They must exist. In fact I think I may have seen some. Probably themed e.g What we did in the South Seas, Summer Time in the Indian Hills, Wizard japes in Tanganyika etc. Grandparents were missionaries in the LMS so there is alot of that sort of stuff around various relatives houses although I cannot pin down any titles from memory. I am fairly sure that David Livingstone had a journal, and I have definitely seen some bits in that vein from Papua New Guinea (I used to have a 2 volume set of old Cerise Penguin paperbacks by a magistrate in PNG.) Albert Schweitzer wrote one or two things.
 
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A page on the Penguin Cerise series of travel books....These still appear quite cheaply in charity shops.

Not in the States, I fear. I remember having seen only one that I think's from this series, Peter Fleming's One's Company, which I duly bought. Thanks for pointing out this series.
 
Colin Thubron is great --

Extollager, there have been selections from various missionary diaries and letters made in previous decades, but the problem for modern readers and for readers living in Africa is that the racial attitudes are so patronising and offensive. The missionaries were products of their time as we all are. In the diaries, they come across as brave, homesick, inventive, mystical, pragmatic -- fully rounded in many ways, but with a particular set of cultural blinkers bound up with the Victorian church and notions of moral superiority.
 
Extollager, there have been selections from various missionary diaries and letters made in previous decades, but the problem for modern readers and for readers living in Africa is that the racial attitudes are so patronising and offensive. .....a particular set of cultural blinkers bound up with the Victorian church and notions of moral superiority.

Since I regard our own time as being at least as guilty of undeserved moral superiority as any I know, I would probably have little trouble handling the element you describe! Is there a particularly good volume?

...Started Newby's Slowly Down the Ganges today and am absolutely loving it.
 
Well you could start with David Livingstone's Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa, originally published by John Murray in the UK (about 1861) and then Harper & Bros in New York (1876). It is a mixed bag of a book because the publisher wanted it to appeal not just to a religious readership but to the scientific community and Livingstone was not a scientist. He did however want to sound like one and imitated the recently published Arctic Explorations (1856) of Elisha Kent Kane. The problem of course was that Livingstone was a preacher, an old-fashioned London Missionary Society pastor not well-versed in current debates in theology or post-Enlightenment thinking, and not a trained linguist, ethnologist, geologist or botanist. The publisher appointed a researcher named Milton to fact-check and revise Livingstone's manuscript and Livingstone accused his editor of 'namby-pambyism' and diluting or even emasculating his copy.

The character of Livingstone is quite an anomaly -- he walked vast distances in terrible conditions of heat and drought, failed to convert most of the indigenous people he met, he was pietist in a very private way and lacked charm -- bad-tempered, over-sensitive and happiest when off travelling or alone with his books. His desire to abolish the slave trade was unwavering and sincere and he comes across as both insatiably curious and gullible, believing the most picturesque or 'noble' explanations given to him.

To bolster the accuracy of texts now perhaps 30 years old and taken from scribbled notebooks, tables showing "latitude and longitude of positions" were completed by Thomas Maclear, Astronomer Royal at the Cape of Good Hope, using Livingstone's observation book, which Livingstone admitted was "quite a mass of confusion". A number of scientists were consulted and amended the texts, not always accurately

Livingstone was also critical of the illustrations and criticised the famous etching of Victoria Falls (now known as Mosi Oa Tunye) in Zimbabwe/Zambia. He hated the illustration showing his escape from the lion, because the animal sketched by the artist did not resemble an African lion.

The book was a huge success and popularised many ideas to do with Africa as barbaric, dangerous and ripe for Christian conversion. There are a number of editions and more popular accounts produced from the first text.
 
The character of Livingstone is quite an anomaly -- he walked vast distances in terrible conditions of heat and drought, failed to convert most of the indigenous people he met, he was pietist in a very private way and lacked charm -- bad-tempered, over-sensitive and happiest when off travelling or alone with his books. His desire to abolish the slave trade was unwavering and sincere and he comes across as both insatiably curious and gullible, believing the most picturesque or 'noble' explanations given to him.

But surely this Amazon reviewer read carelessly or is telling a tall tale:

"The author didn't just look at the books that Stanley and Livingstone wrote for public view. He also looked at the journals of the two men. Thus, we are privy to their most inner thoughts and disappointments. Livingstone was guilty about not having spent more time at home in England with his wife and children. (His wife was so lonely she came to Africa to join him in 1861. She died from malaria in 1862.) He also, however, despite his reputation as a "pure of heart" missionary, was very sexually active with African women. He himself estimated that he had enjoyed the favors of 300 natives" -- commenting on Into Africa: The Epic Adventures of Stanley and Livingstone, by Martin Dugard.

Surely if there were any chance this is true, innumerable writers and readers would have been happy to gloat over such a tasty feast of "Victorian hypocrisy" -- for which there is always a market.
 
Extollager and all, I must go and look at my sources and check to see if I can get info on this. It's fairly safe to say that this was not common or public knowledge at the time Livingstone was being published because it would have caused tremendous scandal.

What you write doesn't contradict what I wrote and that needs to be spelled out a little -- respectable church-going Victorian middle-class men frequented brothels and had liaisons with prostitutes or working-class women to an extent largely unsuspected at the time. This was a kind of social hypocrisy that went unremarked and one of the ways we know about it is because their wives were treated for syphilis and family doctors were concerned about health issues.

There's a complicated discourse about sexual hygiene that goes on right through 19th-century Britain that has to do with men 'needing' sexual outlets for health reasons, men being entitled to sex with women, having the right to sex. Then there's another discourse to do with middle-class women being invalids and entitled to refuse their husbands or allowed to deny their husbands because they were recovering from miscarriages or painful childbirth or were told by doctors to refrain from sex because another pregnancy might kill them. And you have considerate husbands who refrain from demanding sex from their wives but feel they are then driven to use 'women of the street'.

And there is a parallel discourse about men far from home and separated from their wives, who find women to satisfy their sexual needs, women who are just objects, women of inferior social class or other, black women, anonymous women.

I don't know where Dugard got his information -- from unpublished diaries of Livingstone or Stanley? I find it hard to imagine they would record such moral failing or 'impurities' except in code. These were always notebooks kept for eventual publication and were invariably self-censored at the time of writing.

But I need to do some research on this. So interesting -- thanks, Extollager.

One of the most interesting lives in exile was that of Dr James Barry who reduced Florence Nightingale to tears in the Crimea, who fought a duel at the Cape over a married woman -- on his death Barry was found to be a woman or hermaphrodite and that caused great shock. Even though in diaries and letters of the time, various people who met Barry commented on his female looks and mannerisms, that he was clearly an old woman. Perhaps Livingstone's promiscuity with black women was similarly an 'open secret'?
 
That Flaubert looks very interesting, and I will check it out. Thanks.
Really liked Madame Bovary, never looked at his other books. Julian Barnes' Flaubert's Parrot is good.
 
As only five months have passed, and as I'm only one and a half books into his oeuvre, I won't say that Eric Newby is my "New Author of the Year" -- but he could turn out to be the one, much as I enjoyed my first Patrick Leigh Fermor book some weeks ago. Perhaps these two will have to tie for the honor. (I think of novelist Madison Jones as my "New Author of the Year" for 2012.)

The Guardian's obituary ("The expenses he claimed made his colleagues gasp with admiration"):


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Obituary
Eric Newby



Idiosyncratic travel writer from another age, and author of the classic A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush

Edward Mace George
Monday October 23, 2006
The Guardian

Nobody was better qualified to produce his own obituary than the travel writer Eric Newby, author of the classic A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush, who has died aged 86. Ever ready to spill the autobiographical beans, he was not one to sell himself short. The notice would have read splendidly, for at his best Newby, a former Observer travel editor, could conjure a scene as Canaletto could a painting or Berlioz an opera.


Newby was born at the tail end of the Victorian and Edwardian era, when Englishmen explored the world with purpose and intent rather than for frivolous pleasure, enduring gender-testing hardship wherever possible. By the time Newby got going the old spirit had diminished, but he did his best to keep it alive. When he was in London, he always gave the impression that he was on leave.There was more than a touch of Boy's Own about him, and of Baker Street. He invariably wore a smart trilby, but a deerstalker would have been equally appropriate. He had a passion for heavy boots and cumbersome waterproofs. He was a glorious combination of idiosyncrasy and beautiful manners, all the time bubbling with vitality and gob-smacking gusto. He wore the right clothes: his safari suits were immaculate. Even after he joined the Garrick, he continued to dress like a gentleman.
Born and brought up in Barnes, south-west London, Newby was sent to St Paul's school, his middle-class parents, George and Hilda, no doubt intending him for a thoroughly conventional future, perhaps a notch up socially, with a safe, well-paid nine to five job and a Joan Hunter-Dunn marriage. Small indications were noted early that events might turn out otherwise. In the fifth form, he was marked out as a boy who could spot a joke at 20 yards and who revelled in self-ridicule. All his life his humour had the equivalent in music of perfect pitch. Nevertheless, after leaving school at 16, he went to work for the advertising firm, Dorland.
Not for long. By 1938 Newby had got himself on the crew of a four-masted barque, first as an apprentice, then as an ordinary seaman, sailing in the last Grain race from Australia to Europe, by way of Cape Horn. He used to say that the masts which the crew had to climb were as high as Nelson's column. When the war came along, he served in the Black Watch, being decorated later, and the Special Boat Section. He was a PoW from 1942 until the end of the war.
Indeed, he was twice taken prisoner, and told the story of his recapture - "a very disagreeable experience" - in what many regard as his finest book, Love and War in the Apennines (1971), a superb reconstruction of how at the height of the guerrilla warfare against the Germans in Italy, he met Wanda, the girl he returned to find when the war was over and whom he subsequently married. Although A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush (1958) is the comic masterpiece Newby will be remembered by, Love and War revealed another side to what on the surface was an uncomplicated nature, a compelling tenderness and compassion. There are passages of great depth, quite beyond the range of ordinary travel writing.
In 1946 Newby went into the fashion business, an unlikely pitch where he remained for 10 years, breaking out occasionally from pinning up models for the catwalk in order to explore far flung places, always with the maximum discomfort. He changed tack in 1956 and went to the publishers Secker and Warburg for three years, before once again answering the call of fashion by joining the John Lewis Partnership. From 1959 to 1963, he was their central buyer for ladies' model dresses.
There was some divergence of opinion about how that worked out. Even Evelyn Waugh, who was sufficiently impressed by young Newby's writings to offer to contribute the preface to A Short Walk without a fee, confessed himself flummoxed by the contrasts in Newby's life. However, the two sides were probably less opposed than they may have appeared. Newby had a wife and a son and daughter to support, and full-time travel writing, let alone the expense of gathering the material, had severe limitations.
What was needed was a sponsor, and in 1964 it came. The Observer, under David Astor, was moving into a new ring in the quality Sunday newspaper circus. George Seddon, a brilliant journalistic innovator, was charged with bucking-up the ideas and appeal of the paper's review section. He was an admirer of Newby's style, and offered him the job of travel editor.
During Newby's almost 10-year tenure the paper produced distinguished travel pages, although, in truth, he was not a very good travel editor. The nuts and bolts of the job bored him, and the vulgarity of most modern travel journalism disgusted him. His talents were wasted on the minutiae that were required. He was lucky to enjoy the first-rate assistance of the self-effacing Diana Petry, without whose help the travel pages would sometimes have failed to appear. Newby would be off on his travels or, if at home, writing books about them. The expenses he claimed made his colleagues gasp with admiration. He wrote 25 books, all of them listed in his entry in his Who's Who entry. Three of them were written jointly, and it was typical of Newby not to mention who the collaborators were: he was not keen on sharing glory.
It was during his time at the Observer that Newby became an expert photographer, often with the help and advice of exasperated picture editors. He left the paper in 1973 to produce The World Atlas of Exploration (1975), on terms that were alleged to put him on a secure financial footing for good. Subsequently, he published books in swift succession, often going over the same ground; in 1973 he brought out two within months. The spring of rich, fruity prose seemed inexhaustible. Wanda, a splendid homemaker who stood little, if any, nonsense, saw to his creature comforts, finally settling him down, spectacularly well-fed, in a lovely house in Surrey.
Sadly, more did not mean better. Newby's journalism got repetitive and, by the late 1980s, slapdash. People began to hint, and then to say out loud, that he was written out. He may have known this, yet could not stop writing. His last title, A Book of Lands and Peoples, appeared in 2003.
Not that it matters. Few travel writers have left behind them such a blaze of fun and evocation, stimulants that affect a reader's imagination like an electric charge. It is very sad indeed that we shall never again see that ubiquitous trilby perched with the precision of a lightning conductor above that handsome, weatherbeaten face, or hear once more the heart-warming chuckle.
Wanda survives him, as do their childen Sonia and Jonathan.

· Eric Newby, travel writer, born December 6 1919; died October 20 2006
 
Re: A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush by Eric Newby. That is a very good book. I bought a copy in the bookshop of the Taj Mahal Hotel in Bombay in 1990 and read it on the train from Bombay to Calcutta. It was later stolen from an autorickshaw in Madras.
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Short Walk was very good. I've just finished another Newby, Slowly Down the Ganges, which is surely one of the finest travel books I've read. It's kind of dreamy and yet loaded with good observation and precise historical details. The journey, from the beginnings of Ganges at Hardwar, where there's hardly enough water to float their boat (they run aground 57 times), to the Indian Ocean, where Newby and his wife are passing many wrecks going back so many years, was a great idea for a travel book.

I'll eventually taper off on reading so many travel books in a short time, but right now I feel that I simply don't want the trouble of working with plot, character motivation, and other aspects of literary design, etc. A good travel book puts you in the company of one or more interesting people (the interplay between Newby and his wife is an important ingredient in Slowly Down the Ganges) and in an interesting locale, and you go from episode to episode, image to image. A well-written travel book like this one does more than just recount episodes till the journey runs out. It's an imaginative experience, not just a book of information!
 
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Eric Newby was an exceptional travel writer -- Extollager, have you read the book where he talks about how he met Wanda in WWII? Can't recall which one, but a moving love story.

I go through periods when all I want to read is travel or biography. Taking a break from fiction lets the well fill up again.
 
Eric Newby was an exceptional travel writer -- Extollager, have you read the book where he talks about how he met Wanda in WWII? Can't recall which one, but a moving love story.

I should receive Newby's Love and War in the Apennines in the mail any day now. (Btw, the US title apparently was When the Snow Comes, They Will Take You Away.)

My remark above must have given the impression I wasn't reading any novels at the moment. Actually, I gave Orwell's dreary Keep the Aspidistra Flying a rereading.
 

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