I'm doing exactly what Toby was, and have just got to the same point ('Jaynestown')as he did when he apparently stopped (or stopped writing them up, anyway). I agree with the slight air of clunkiness, but also with the 'I laughed out loud at least once in every episode' comment. I also found that there's at least one genuine 'wow' moment in each episode, usually involving
Serenity herself (rising over a canyon wall, appearing to stop a witch-burning, etc).
One of the best bits for me is that Serenity is not a sleek Federation science vessel, or a kilometer-long star destroyer - she's a workhorse, well-used, held together with duct-tape and Kaylee's love and pride. I think that the production design team got that exactly right.
I also think that some of the comments above are a little unfair to River Tam. As tinkerdan says, she was intended to be the protagonist in a seasons-long arc (a Josh Whedon specialty - look at
Buffy) which was curtailed by the cancellation of the show.
"Two by two, hands of blue" was solved in
"Serenity: Those Left Behind", but the film would probably never existed if the TV show hadn't been canned. I think River would have become less annoying and more integral to the arc as it progressed.
By the way, has anyone else noticed the Imperial Shuttle in the pilot?